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Bodega Las Cepas

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The vines of Las Cepas in the Rioja region, in autumnal colours.

With the gigantic stature of a Norseman and his preference for heavy metal, the powerfully eloquent Alberto Ramírez does not really fit the image of a typical Spanish wine producer. His brother Santiago matches that sort of concept much better: The thoughtful vine master is the stabilising element on the Rioja vineyard of Las Cepas. He ensures that high-quality grapes ripen on the stony slopes, which his brother Alberto as the cellar master can then transform into fine wines.

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A brotherly duo, working in harmony: Alberto (left) and Santiago Ramírez Pérez.

The brothers have been working together like this since 2006. Before that, the Ramirez family had for decades sold their grapes to the cooperative of Aldeanueva del Ebro. Then, when mother Carmén encouraged her sons to forego the use of chemical spray and to cultivate the vines organically, they immediately consented. But it was also clear to the brothers that from then on they intended to produce their own wines.

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David Rodriguez of Delinat (centre) with the Ramírez brothers in the stony vineyards.

Not that Albert and Santiago have since reinvented Rioja. But they are innovative enough to leave the beaten track sometimes. They are so attached to their Graciano vines that they have seriously revalued this otherwise underrated variety compared to the leading Rioja variety, Tempranillo. It has a lot to do with the fact that the Graciano thrives particularly well in the warm, dry Rioja Baja where the vineyard is located.

Videos from the Las Cepas vineyard